Blemishes, stress, a dull complexion – stress really does get under your skin. In our expert interview, Dr Henrike Neuhoff, Scientific Director at lavera Natural Beauty, explains how to help the skin regain its calm.
“Cortisol face” is currently all over TikTok and Instagram – what is really behind it?
This viral topic is based on something real, even though social media naturally tends to exaggerate it quickly. Stress does have a direct impact on the skin: above all, it weakens the skin barrier, inhibits collagen production and makes the skin drier and more sensitive. The so-called “puffy face”, which is associated with cortisol on TikTok, is indeed recognised in medicine – but only when cortisol levels are clinically very high, for example in Cushing’s syndrome. Everyday stress does not usually reach this level. A genuine cortisol detox, as some people demand, makes no medical sense – cortisol is vital. But one thing is true: the skin really does suffer from chronic stress.
„When we are stressed, cortisol levels rise, stimulating sebum production. This can lead to clogged pores and blemishes.“
What exactly happens to the skin when we are stressed?
The skin has a direct line to the brain, known as the skin–brain axis. The skin and nervous system originate from the same embryonic tissue and remain permanently connected. When stress arises, the body sends messengers such as cortisol, CRH and substance P to the skin. This triggers a chain reaction: the skin barrier becomes weaker,
the skin loses more moisture, redness and inflammation develop, and sebum production increases. We all know the result: redness, dryness and blemishes – often precisely when we need them least. Psychological strain is therefore not processed only in the mind; it is also passed directly on to the skin.
Is stressed skin the same as sensitive skin, or is there a difference?
The two are often confused. Sensitive skin is frequently genetic: some people naturally have a less resilient barrier and react more strongly to stimuli. Stressed skin, on the other hand, can affect anyone, including people whose skin is normally robust. It develops as a result of overload: lack of sleep, hormonal fluctuations, poor air quality and ongoing psychological pressure. The good news is that, unlike sensitive skin, stressed skin is often temporary – provided you know what it needs at that moment.
What does “adaptogenic” mean, and why is it interesting for skincare?
Adaptogens are plant substances that help the body cope with stress more effectively. The concept comes from naturopathy and has been known there for some time, for example through ashwagandha used as a food supplement. We have transferred this approach to skincare, while recognising that research into topical application is still newer than research into oral use. The idea is this: rather than only treating symptoms such as redness or dryness, we strengthen the skin so that it can cope better with stress – preventively, at a cellular level. In a sense, the skin becomes more stress-resilient.
Ashwagandha is now known as a superfood supplement – what does the active ingredient do for the skin?
Ashwagandha is indeed one of the best-researched adaptogens and has been used in Ayurvedic medicine for thousands of years. Applied topically, organic ashwagandha supports the skin’s natural balance, has a soothing effect on stress reactions and promotes regeneration. Combined with CICA – Centella Asiatica, the skincare icon from the K-beauty world – and panthenol, it creates a trio that really addresses the causes of stressed skin: strengthening the barrier, soothing and providing moisture.
Many people think skincare starts with the cream – why is the Cleansing Balm so important for stressed skin?
That is a widespread misconception. Good skincare starts with cleansing, and treating stressed skin with an aggressive cleanser only makes things worse. The Calm & Comfort Cleansing Balm uses Balm-to-Milk technology: the firm, creamy texture melts with the warmth of the skin into an oil, which turns into a gentle emulsion when
mixed with water – leaving no residue or greasy film and with excellent skin compatibility. It cleanses thoroughly, including waterproof make-up, while actively counteracting skin stress. The make-up removal ritual can therefore
become a genuine moment of slowing down.
Who is Calm & Comfort for, and when does it make sense to start using it?
For anyone who experiences their skin as stressed, irritated or sensitive from time to time – this is not a question of age or skin type. Whether it is starting a career with too little sleep, city life with a high level of environmental stress or simply an intense phase of life: as soon as the skin reacts with dryness, tightness or redness, it is the right time. Anyone who wants to act preventively can also start before it gets to that point. Less is more here: a good cleanser, a strong cream, and that is all.
What else can you do besides skincare – are there any simple everyday tips?
Yes, and they are surprisingly simple, even if they sound clichéd.
If someone is right in the middle of a stressful period and does not know where to start, what would be your advice?
Less is more – that is my number-one personal tip. Stressed skin does not need an elaborate routine, but calm and targeted support. Cleanse gently, apply a soothing cream that protects the skin barrier and then avoid anything that could irritate it: no exfoliation, no strong acids and no experimenting with new products. And the skin is a
mirror. Once you start listening to it, you treat it differently. Calm & Comfort was made precisely for these moments – when both skin and senses want to find their way back to calm.
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